Название: Койевая кислота
INCI: Kojic Acid
Синонимы: AEC койевая кислота, Kojic Acid SL, Kojissan TQ, Melanobleach-K, OriStar К., ROTA KA.
Способ получения: Койевую кислоту получают главным образом сбраживанием углеводов (глюкозы, арабинозы, ксилозы и др.) с помощью бактерий Aspergillus orizae, Aspergillus glaucus и др.
Описание: Койевая кислота – это натуральный продукт метаболизма грибов видов Aspergillus (их используют при производстве саке), Aerobacter и Penicillum. Койевая кислота является мягким ингибитором образования пигмента в растительных и животных тканях, а также используется в пищевой промышленности и косметологии для сохранения или изменения цвета веществ, является компонентом антибиотиков, инсектицидов и пестицидов. Койевая кислота является эффективным отбеливателем кожи, что обуславливается её способностью к подавлению синтеза меланина. Она эффективна, безопасна, не токсична и не повреждает клетки кожи, воздействуя исключительно на меланоциты. Наибольшее распространение в косметической промышленности койевая кислота получила в качестве осветлителя кожи при лечении меланодермии.
Органолептические свойства:
Внешний вид: Слегка горьковатые бесцветные кристаллы или кристаллический порошок без запаха
Температура плавления: 152-154°С
рН:4,5-6,5
Растворимость: легко растворима в холодной и горячей воде (при этом температура горячей воды должна составлять 50С, а уровень РН быть нейтральным), маслах, этаноле.
Свойства:
*Обладает противовоспалительным и антибактериальными свойствами;
*Оказывает антиоксидантное воздействие;
*Эффективно отшелушивает и увлажняет кожу;
*Подавляет синтез меланина, способствуя устранению гиперпигментации кожи;
*Обладает мощным осветляющим кожу эффектом;
*Обладает небольшим консервирующим свойством;
*Стимулирует синтез коллагена.
Показания к применению:
*Антивозрастная профилактика
*Лечение и профилактика фотостарения;
*Гиперпигментации (мелазма, хлоазма, старческие пятна, веснушки);
*Пигментации, вызванные беременностью, противозачаточными таблетками, инсоляцией, косметическими средствами, медикаментозными препаратами;
*Акне, постакне, угревая сыпь, поствоспалительная гиперпигментация;
*Актинические кератомы.
Использование:
*Отбеливающие косметические продукты (тоники, крема, сыворотки, маски);
*Антивозрастные кремы, гели, тоники и лосьоны;
*Кремы, лосьоны, маски для ухода за жирной кожей и кожей, склонной к акне;
*Очищающие средства (гели, пенки, муссы, пилинги).
Способ применения: вводится в готовую эмульсию при 40-50С.
Особенности применения:
*Коевая кислота очень легко окисляется, поэтому необходимо избегать сильных окислителей, света, щелочей;
*Желательно сочетать с АНА-кислотами, витаминами A, C, E, фруктовыми отбеливающими экстрактами (напр. папайей)
Рекомендуемая концентрация в рецептах: 0,1- 1%, для пилингов до 4%.
Примечания:
1) При использовании койевой кислоты в рецептурах дневной косметики обязательно должны присутствовать УФ-фильтры;
2) Эффект от применения койевой кислоты проявляется, как правило, в пределах от 4 до 6 недель. При этом речь идет не об одной процедуре, а о строгом курсе лечения. Обычно используется в 0,2-1% концентрации, 2 раза в день на протяжении 2 месяцев. Более высокие концентрации не проявляют выраженного отбеливающего действия.
3) При длительном применении может вызывать жжение, шелушение, покраснение;
4) С осторожностью применять при чувствительной коже и розацеа.
Противопоказания и меры предосторожности: обострение герпетической инфекции, контактный дерматит, индивидуальная непереносимость.
Хранение: Хранить в прохладном и сухом месте, в герметично закрытой таре. Беречь от прямого сильного света и тепла.
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